(originally posted in 2011) nd so I willingly become a whore. Gladly. Openly. Embracingly prostitutional.  This experiment with food is getting interesting as I seek out opportunities to build my knife skills and learn the back of the house. My goal, as stated previously, is to gain confidence in the kitchen—enough to enable me to […]

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Volaille Pyramide

voilaille pyramide

The Treasury of Great Recipes delivered to America classic French cuisine and recipes from Michelin starred restaurants around the world. Reading these recipes is an adventure—and a little frustrating. The ingredients are listed alone, but their measurements are buried in the recipe.

Also, the recipe is written for 1960s housewives and amateur cooks not steeped in a decade of food TV and YouTube cooking lessons. Most people in America these days can hold a decent conversation about knife skills. Not so half a century ago, when powdered peas and canned grapes were the norm.

For instance, in the recipe for Volaille Pyramide, you are walked through making a Bechamel sauce using some of the braising liquid, thickened with egg yolks. It is not called a Bechamel sauce, which for most folks cooking off the internet, would be sufficient. It doesn’t tell you to temper the egg yolks before adding them to the sauce. It spells everything out.

Check out this recipe for Volaille Pyramide then look at how it’s listed in the Treasury. You’re welcome.

The Recipe


Mousse de Saumon Perigueux

The Treasury of Great Recipes | Menu from La Pyramide

Perigueux is a classic French sauce that started with one of the mothers (demi glace) then added a local specialty, truffles, to develop a unique flavor profile. Julia Child loved Perigueux and recommended it for “filet of beef, fresh foie gras, veal, egg dishes, and timbales.”

Some recipes call for Madeira instead of cognac and some recipes call this sauce Dorgogne. However, there is a great difference between cognac and Madeira, and the is a great difference between Dorgogne and Perigueux. France is divided into regions and departments. There are 27 administrative regions, 96 departments, and 342 arrondissements. I’m certain the divisions continue until you’re marking off parts of a single French kitchen, however, for our purposes, it is important to recognize the origins of this sauce in Perigueux, known for its truffles, which give this sauce its unique profile.

Most recipes call for frying the shallots in goose fat, but I’m partial to duck over goose so I’ve changed this recipe a little feature the fat of my favorite bird.


Bull Garlington

Bull Garlington

Goorin fedora.

Bull Garlington is an author and syndicated humor columnist whose work has appeared in parenting magazines including Chicago Parenting, New York Parenting, Michiana Parent, Tulsa Parent, Birmingham Parent, Carolina Parent and more. He is co-author of the popular foodie compendium, The Beat Cop’s Guide to Chicago Eats. Garlington’s features have appeared in newspapers and magazines across the nation since 1989; he won the Parenting Media Association’s Gold Award for best humor article in 2013. His book, Death by Children was a 2013 book of the year finalist for the Midwest Publishers Association, and was named 2013 Humor Book of the Year by the prestigious industry standard, ForeWard Reviews.

Fiction and More by Bull Garlington

His fiction has appeared in numerous literary magazines, including Bathhouse, Slab, and The Dead Mule School of Southern Literature. His short stories are available for free, readable on any device, at Smashwords.

He wrote the preface for the new edition of A Treasury of Great Recipes, edited and published by Victoria Price, out in 2015. He is currently working on a print version of Eating Vincent Price, a travel memoir, Sleeping Through Britannia, and a collection of genre short stories.

Short Bio for Bull Garlington

He was born in Birmingham, AL. in 1964 and grew up in small town Florida. His first real job was the copy desk for the Orlando Sentinel, where he wrote book reviews and club reviews until leaving to [insert a string of ‘colorful’ life choices here]. He was the front matter contributor for Florida magazine, then the back matter contributor for Orlando magazine, before moving to Chicago.

He’s married to Colleen, a patent attorney and Chicago native. He has two children, two dogs, and a cat. He lives and works on the Northside in the delightful Edgebrook community, a neighborhood sans curbs, drives a late model Camry, smokes Eurora churchills, and makes a mean Gumbo.