Whore

(originally posted in 2011) nd so I willingly become a whore. Gladly. Openly. Embracingly prostitutional.  This experiment with food is getting interesting as I seek out opportunities to build my knife skills and learn the back of the house. My goal, as stated previously, is to gain confidence in the kitchen—enough to enable me to […]

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Volaille Pyramide

voilaille pyramide

The Treasury of Great Recipes delivered to America classic French cuisine and recipes from Michelin starred restaurants around the world. Reading these recipes is an adventure—and a little frustrating. The ingredients are listed alone, but their measurements are buried in the recipe.

Also, the recipe is written for 1960s housewives and amateur cooks not steeped in a decade of food TV and YouTube cooking lessons. Most people in America these days can hold a decent conversation about knife skills. Not so half a century ago, when powdered peas and canned grapes were the norm.

For instance, in the recipe for Volaille Pyramide, you are walked through making a Bechamel sauce using some of the braising liquid, thickened with egg yolks. It is not called a Bechamel sauce, which for most folks cooking off the internet, would be sufficient. It doesn’t tell you to temper the egg yolks before adding them to the sauce. It spells everything out.

Check out this recipe for Volaille Pyramide then look at how it’s listed in the Treasury. You’re welcome.

The Recipe

Volaille Pyramide

Ingredients

  • 1 large, 1 small truffles
  • chicken
  • 1 C butter
  • 1 leek
  • 1 onion
  • 8 small carrots
  • 2 C white wine
  • 1 lemon
  • 6 C chicken stock
  • 1/2 t salt
  • 3 cloves
  • 1/2 t peppercorns
  • 1/2 C flour
  • 2 egg yolks

Instructions

    Chicken
  1. shave truffles
  2. loosen skin at the neck of the chicken; insert your hand carefully to separate the skin as far as you can--do not pierce the skin, don't force anything. Love your chicken.
  3. Insert the truffle slices, fitting them accordingly (the biggest slices cover the breast, the smallest into the skin on the legs).
  4. Melt butter in a braising pan
  5. Place the sliced leeks (white parts only) and the carrots in the casserole.
  6. Lay the chicken onto this bed of vegetables. Brown on all sides over moderate heat. Finish with the chicken on its side.
  7. Add white wine and stock (enough stock to reach halfway up the bird)
  8. Add salt and peppercorns
  9. Bring to a boil, cover tightly, braise for 1 1/2 hours, turning side to side at 20 minute intervals, adding more stock when necessary. When cooked, keep hot in the stock.
  10. Sauce
  11. In a saucepan, heat 1/4 cup of butter
  12. Stir in 1/2 cup flour, stir and cook but don't brown
  13. Gradually stir in 3 C of stock from the chicken, cook until sauce is thickened
  14. add one small carrot
  15. add an onion stuck with cloves
  16. Cook sauce over very low heat for about an hour
  17. Remove vegetables
  18. Stir in, piece by piece, 1 T of butter
  19. Beat 3 egg yolks with a little of the sauce, then add to the sauce and cook, stirring briskly, for about 1 minute
  20. Squeeze some lemon juice in there, season to taste.
  21. *Presentation!
  22. Place the chicken in the center of a warm platter, surround with leeks and carrots. Spoon sauce over chicken.
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Mousse de Saumon Perigueux

The Treasury of Great Recipes | Menu from La Pyramide

Perigueux is a classic French sauce that started with one of the mothers (demi glace) then added a local specialty, truffles, to develop a unique flavor profile. Julia Child loved Perigueux and recommended it for “filet of beef, fresh foie gras, veal, egg dishes, and timbales.”

Some recipes call for Madeira instead of cognac and some recipes call this sauce Dorgogne. However, there is a great difference between cognac and Madeira, and the is a great difference between Dorgogne and Perigueux. France is divided into regions and departments. There are 27 administrative regions, 96 departments, and 342 arrondissements. I’m certain the divisions continue until you’re marking off parts of a single French kitchen, however, for our purposes, it is important to recognize the origins of this sauce in Perigueux, known for its truffles, which give this sauce its unique profile.

Most recipes call for frying the shallots in goose fat, but I’m partial to duck over goose so I’ve changed this recipe a little feature the fat of my favorite bird.

Mousse de Saumon Perigueux

Ingredients

    Salmon Mousse
  • 1 medium sized, fresh, salmon
  • 3 tablespoons tablespoon heavy cream
  • 1 1.2 tablespoons of tomato paste
  • 1/2 shallot, finely chopped
  • 1/2 lemon juice and a few slices
  • 1 1/2 tablespoon butter softened
  • a few sprigs of dill
  • salt and pepper
  • Sauce Perigueux
  • duck fat
  • 1/2 cup white wine
  • 3 T cognac
  • 1 med onion, sliced
  • 3 shallots, chopped
  • 3 truffles
  • 1 T beef stock
  • 1 T flour

Instructions

    Salmon Mousse
  1. (Prepared the day before.)
  2. Cook the salmon in the oven, let cool and peel the flesh (discard skin and bones).
  3. Crumble in a bowl.
  4. Butter the mold.
  5. Add salmon flesh cream, tomato paste, shallot, juices
  6. Add 5 tablespoons of lemon.
  7. Add salt and pepper.
  8. Mix everything 3 min in a food processor.
  9. Pour the mixture into the mold and press with a wooden spoon.
  10. Leave overnight in the refrigerator.
  11. Sauce Perigueux
  12. Fry the shallots in the duck fat.
  13. Add the wine and brandy, then light on fire.
  14. In a separate pan, brown the onion. Add a little beef stock.
  15. Prepare a peanut butter roux with a little duck fat
  16. Add the onions and shallots with their liquid, stirring everything into your roux. Simmer over very low heat for about an hour. Stir!
  17. Salt and pepper to taste
  18. Dice your truffles into small pieces.
  19. Strain the sauce, add the truffles.
  20. Reheat and serve.
  21. To Serve
  22. Slide a knife along the sides of pan and unmold onto a small, chilled plate.
  23. Use the sauce to decorate the plate, allowing a few drops to fall onto the mousse.
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Bull Garlington

Bull Garlington

Goorin fedora.

Bull Garlington is an author and syndicated humor columnist whose work has appeared in parenting magazines including Chicago Parenting, New York Parenting, Michiana Parent, Tulsa Parent, Birmingham Parent, Carolina Parent and more. He is co-author of the popular foodie compendium, The Beat Cop’s Guide to Chicago Eats. Garlington’s features have appeared in newspapers and magazines across the nation since 1989; he won the Parenting Media Association’s Gold Award for best humor article in 2013. His book, Death by Children was a 2013 book of the year finalist for the Midwest Publishers Association, and was named 2013 Humor Book of the Year by the prestigious industry standard, ForeWard Reviews.

Fiction and More by Bull Garlington

His fiction has appeared in numerous literary magazines, including Bathhouse, Slab, and The Dead Mule School of Southern Literature. His short stories are available for free, readable on any device, at Smashwords.

He wrote the preface for the new edition of A Treasury of Great Recipes, edited and published by Victoria Price, out in 2015. He is currently working on a print version of Eating Vincent Price, a travel memoir, Sleeping Through Britannia, and a collection of genre short stories.

Short Bio for Bull Garlington

He was born in Birmingham, AL. in 1964 and grew up in small town Florida. His first real job was the copy desk for the Orlando Sentinel, where he wrote book reviews and club reviews until leaving to [insert a string of ‘colorful’ life choices here]. He was the front matter contributor for Florida magazine, then the back matter contributor for Orlando magazine, before moving to Chicago.

He’s married to Colleen, a patent attorney and Chicago native. He has two children, two dogs, and a cat. He lives and works on the Northside in the delightful Edgebrook community, a neighborhood sans curbs, drives a late model Camry, smokes Eurora churchills, and makes a mean Gumbo.