Pannequets Soufflés Flambés

(Flaming Soufflé Pancakes) What is the biggest complaint about pancakes? They’re not on fire. This recipe will fix that. It’s also another recipe wherein the Prices reveal their affinity for freezing stuff that would make a foodie stab themselves in the pancreas (with a hand crafted 8″ chef’s knife, preferably a Henkels). I don’t think […]

Casserolettes de Filets de Sole Lasserre

(little pastry casseroles of fillet of sole) Like many of the recipes in this book, casserolettes de filets de sole Lasserre are easier than they seem—and certainly easier than the picture might suggest. Still, it requires a couple of skills great French cooking will instill in any home chef: confidence and patience. You need confidence […]

Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin

When looking into the history of gastronomic literature and the rise of haute cuisine,  we tend to choose chefs as our icons. For French cuisine, the line goes something like this: Escoffier to Fernand Point to Paul Bucose, like points on a line. But there is a name missing there, a name once synonymous with […]

Le Steak Dumas (Avec ou sans Moelle)

The first entree on the menu for Laserre in 1964 is Steak Dumas, for $18.00. It’s easy to forget how prices have escalated over the decades. Inflation never ends. The cost of beef is ever increasing. Eighteen dollars 50 years ago is equivalent to $136.78 in 2015. Beef from Galicia and duck foie gras, puffed […]

Lasserre

Lasserre

t’s telling that Vincent Price was so careful, when writing about Restaurant Lasserre, to contrast it with iconic Parisian locations. In a few short sentences, Price invokes the charm of Place du Tertre, Bois de Bologne, and the very concept of workingman bistros and the slightly grubby back streets and alleys so intrinsic to the Bohemian […]

Le Grand Succès Réserve

(ice cream cups) When you are presented with a dish like Le Grand Succès, you believe it is an incredibly difficult thing to make, requiring a master pastry chef and a crew of cooks. But it’s not. In fact, once you get the hang of making chocolate bowls, you might go a little crazy with […]

Le Soufflé Aux Framboises

(fresh rasberry Soufflé) I’m learning a lot about how groceries were sold in the 50s and 60s from reading Vincent Price’s notes in the The Treasury of Great Recipes. On page 37, in the recipe for fresh raspberry soufflé, he tells the reader: Just one word of warning: [this recipe] cannot be made with frozen […]

Le Poussin En Surprise

(Boned stuffed Cornish rock hens with sauce diable) Another recipe from the Hotel Réserve. This recipe for Le Poussin en Surprise is from the south of France so it picks up some of the flavors of Spain in the spicy olive oil marinade. This recipe also displays the infuriating habit of the recipes in the […]

Sauté de Scupions à la Niçoise

(squid with tomato and anchovies) Americans need to cook with anchovies way more than we do. Anchovy paste added to pasta or soup or, Jesus a hamburger, will deepen the flavor and bring out the sexy Italian hiding deep inside. Use that shit! We also need to cook more scupions at home. Hell, we need […]

Riz Pilaf à La Valencienne

(Rice stewed with vegetables, as cooked in Valenciennes, France) When Bull Garlington Sr. purchased The Treasury of Great Recipes in 1965, he vowed he would cook everything in it. As my father was a man of remarkable distraction in his various hobbies, this vow was never fulfilled—save one recipe: Riz Pila à la Valencienne. I […]