Gratin de Queues d’ Ecrevisses

ecrevisse

[Crawfish tails in Sauce Nantua] This is an exhausting dish originally created by Chef M. Hure. I mean that in the best way possible. It requires a lot of prep work, a lot of skill, and takes forever. But the result is delicious and the new skills of making crawdaddy butter and sauce Nantua will […]

La Sole Fourée au Fumet de Meursault

(stuffed Sole poached in Mersault) nother complex dish with instructions that are perhaps not entirely relevant for today’s home cook. In the image above, the entire first paragraph tells you how to filet a sole for stuffing. Of course, if you are an aspiring amateur chef, or just want to be a kitchen badass, then […]

Le Coquelet à la Moutarde

Lauren Parton's Chicken Mustarde.

(Roast game hens with mustard) [Le] Coquelet à la Moutarde is a fantastic recipe. It’s simple. It’s quick. And I can tell you it is delicious. Lauren Parton cooked a version of this for our dinner at the Everleigh Club. Your uppity food snob friend is going to to say “Using chicken is ok, I […]

Le Poulet en Civet au Vieux Bourgnogne

(Chicken Ragout of Old Burgundy) ere is a dish born on the stoves of French mothers. I think most great food, most great recipes, probably started on a stove top of an old world mom who had sparse ingredients but no notion of what to do with them. Some mom ended up with a pot, […]

Guirlande de Suprêmes en Gelée

n the introduction for this dish, Price tells us at the Hostellerie de la Poste they make it with quail, and garnish the dish with their heads, which Price sort of brushes off and claims he’d  “. . . sooner have it without the heads.”  Oh come on—you were in House of Wax and The […]

Sauce Américaine

It is not an American sauce. It is a French sauce created on the fly for an American guest at a Parisian restaurant cheffed by Pierre Fraisse, around 1860. A guest was in a hurry and ordered lobster. Fraisse didn’t have time to make the usual complicated sauce for lobster so he threw together this classic. Maybe. […]

Tournedos Masséna

(Beef fillets with Madeira and truffle sauce) This recipe for Tournedos Masséna is from the Hotel Boule d’Or, in Chinon, a historic town in the heart of the Loire Valley, known as the garden of France. Masséna most likely refers to André Masséna, one of the original eighteen Marshals of the Empire, a hero of […]

Soupe à l’Oignon

(Onion Soup) These days, Taco Bell and Denny’s provide our go-to late night drunk meals[*. Unless you live in Chicago, where there are endless opportunities for post midnight rally meals, most especially the ten billion taquieras up and down Western ave]. But if you’re French or you live in 1954, some place that serves soup […]